My daughter sat at a table full of kids eating chicken tenders and macaroni dripping with cheese. In front of her was a paper plate—flimsy, uncoated, the kind that absorbs grease instantly—holding six saltine crackers and a small plastic cup of tap water.
I watched from across the reception hall, a rustic-chic barn venue that smelled of expensive perfume and fresh-cut peonies, as every other child at that table picked up their forks and started eating.
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